Local transport tour, Mumbai, India, October 2019
A very long tour with an excellent guide, Chenta, whom I recommend. The tour started at 8:30 am at the "Regal Cinema"...
Direction a bus to reach Victoria Terminus or CST Local Train Station or Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus. The seats are not very comfortable but we are in India, not in France. Boarding the bus is from the back and exiting from the front. A controller comes to see you for the ticket. Along the bus, on the ceiling, is stretched a rope. This rope is connected to a bell to signal to the driver when to leave. You have to go very fast during the climb...
We quickly arrive at Victoria Terminus. The interior is really beautiful. I managed to make a 3D panoramic which allows to realize the dimensions of the ticket purchase area. Direction the platforms of this station. Above all, do not be mistaken because the station is huge. The train arrives and we can continue on our way. What strikes first is the absence of a door to the trains. Then, when you look at the ceiling, you are surprised by the many metal handles and rods that allow you to hold on. The seats are also in shiny metal. I feel like I'm on a chrome train. Huge fans cool the ambient air but many Indians remain standing in front of the door. Our station is coming. You have to prepare. You have to go down in the direction of the train. The entrants also go up in the direction of the train, it would almost look like a crossover except that, some, always try to want to go up faster and hinder the descent. It reminds me of something in Paris...
After this metal gray universe, colors strike our pupils. We are at the flower market. These are only shimmering colors from orange to white through red or blue. It's an incredible universe. We are in Divali, the flowers are transformed into multicolored braids, sold by the meter. Competition is great between these different merchants, it is the law of supply and demand, but above all of whoever has the most beautiful flowers. The less beautiful are rejected but they are not lost for all that. The poor sort them again to make braids and resell them in turn. In India, nothing is lost, everything is transformed. It is the country of recovery but also of resourcefulness.
Before continuing, a break to perk up with a glass of ginger-flavoured tea. Excellent remedy against fatigue, stomach aches and everything you want...
Moving forward, we now approach the area of the truckers. These men are waiting for the end of their load to leave to roam the roads. These are journeys of several days to reach remote areas and distribute their precious merchandise. A truck catches my eye. The bottom of the truck is covered with a tarpaulin. On closer inspection, this tarp is filled with water. What is my surprise when I distinguish in this troubled water live fish, swimming quietly in this improvised pool. We are far from French refrigerated transport. The fish will arrive alive and therefore fresher than fresh. My only question is: "can a fish get motion sickness or seasickness"...smile....
We take the train again and after a short walk, we are finally at an essential element of Mumbai: the laundromat. The traditional laundry is still there despite the years. Nearby hotels and restaurants continue to use the services of this huge "human factory". No machine is used. Water tubs, like the washerwomen of my almost native south, and the sun to dry it all out. I feel like I'm out of time. Behind this immense place emerging from the past, buildings under construction remind us that we are indeed in the 21st century.
Here we are again on the train towards another symbolic place in India: Churchgate and the lunch-box carriers. Again this typical side of this unfathomable India. A very old system that remains unmechanized. Numbers on the ground where the lunch-boxes are deposited and the delivery will take place when the porter has all the boxes to deliver. This transport will be done by bicycle, no mechanics in this system. The only change is that the traditional tiered metal boxes have disappeared in favor of these small modern insulated bags. If you haven't seen the movie "The Lunchbox" by Ritesh Batra, I urge you to watch it. Take the opportunity to take a look at the link given below on the shots of the film.
After seeing all these meals, hunger begins to set in. I am unable to describe what I ate except for these rice "chips" that are dipped in more or less spicy sauces.
Finally satisfied, we can leave by shared taxi to another place. Shared taxis. The taxi leaves only when it is full, and it can be very full.... These taxis always take the same route and ask you to get off when your destination arrives. It looks a bit like the Jeepneys of the Philippines. You pay on descent.
Deliverance is coming. We will go through the bazaar, rather the grand bazaar, Bhendi Bazaar. This area looks like an outdoor garage. From everywhere car parts. Moreover cars are even boned. Everything is collected, sorted and stored. If you need a mechanical part, you will find what you are looking for. It's not just recovery, there's also repair. Thus some motorcycle tanks are debossed to return them to their original state following an accident. In this big bazaar, you will find everything: furniture, linen, cameras, telephones... but also in the covered area, fruits and vegetables. Seems strange to see all of these goods rubbing shoulders.
The end of the round is approaching. A city taxi, the black and yellow ones to get us to Batanga Tank, from the Walkeshwar temple to Malabar Hill. Then a family park where families come to have lunch. From there, we have a magnificent view of Back Bay and the buildings.
It's finally 3:30 p.m., it's the end and back to the "Regal Cinema". This journey lasted 7h30 and we covered a few kilometres. The night will be restful...
Many thanks to Chetan for all these explanations and for this discovery of Mumbai. I admit that I did not understand everything and especially remembered.